It’s early still, but New York’s Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week is progressing quite nicely. One of my favorite parts of participating in the live unveiling of these wearable works of art is watch trends unfold before my very eyes—getting more insight with every passing presentation, into how the coming season promises to look.

So far there’s a strong tendency toward the athletic this year. Designers are giving their girls some game time, getting wallflowers off the bench and in the action. While some houses like ADAM are injecting their looks with small suggestions of easy athletic references, others (read: Alexander Wang) are going in with an obvious, in your face approach.

Drawstring trousers, special materials usually reserved for athletic wear, cropped sport’s bra-like tops, leggings and hoodies, have all had their place on the spring runways—and there have been some winning combinations.

Stay tuned for more haute fashion week highlights to come, direct from New York.