With the economic hardships that are apparent across the country and around the globe, many may feel that changing their home’s look with the change of season this year would be too extravagant. In reality, the coming season is calling for simplicity, which can be accomplished in a few easy steps. This spring, whether in home décor or fashion, people and designers will be opting for simple choices, ones that inspire comfort. In-your-face, over-the-top designs are a thing of the past, which works well with my personal style. I always strive to create inviting environments that people feel comfortable in, that they can relax in, whether I am designing a home or hotel, or even hosting an event in my own home. It is important for people to feel welcome.

Simple details make all of the difference in the world. For example, when hosting a dinner party, I often put decorative throw pillows on the chairs and have wraps readily available for guests should they become chilly. Not only do these extra touches enhance people’s comfort level, but they also add to the overall ambiance. I keep the color scheme in check with the rest of the décor, including the centerpiece, which is of utmost importance. You don’t want the centerpiece to be too large, loud, or distracting, but a conversation piece is always a good choice.  When I am not hosting a dinner party, my large dining room table is completely covered with a variety of pieces, from busts and vases to kaleidoscopes and sculptures. Rearranging, adding, and removing these accessories helps update the look without forcing a total makeover, as would be the case if I used one large centerpiece.

Fresh flowers also play a large role in creating a welcoming environment. For my every day, I often use monochromatic arrangements placed intermittently throughout the household. When preparing for larger gatherings, opt for something larger and brighter, as flowers can really liven up any space.

The main thing to keep in mind is that updating a look for the coming season doesn’t have to break the bank. It can be as simple as moving an accent piece from one room to another. It is an easy way to bring a new life and a new feel to a space. In my own home, I am constantly rearranging in hopes of finding the ideal harmony. When things start to feel a little stale, I will move a piece of furniture, artwork, lighting, or even an accessory from one part of the house to another. Having a painting or a sconce in a different room helps change the focal point, therefore altering its entire feel. Experiment and see what you can come up with-you could end up changing the ambiance of your entire home without so much as opening your wallet.

When you do opt for new pieces, avoid trends and choose pieces that you really love. The coming season will be filled with classic styles that will stand the test of time. The new collection of soft home goods that I am debuting with Sferra is reflective of this trend. The line is influenced by my travels, fashion (such as the vintage jewelry pieces that inspired the napkin rings), and my own home.  From decorative throw pillows and throws to dinner napkins, napkin rings, and fine bed linens, the line gives people a way to update their looks for the coming seasons without doing a complete overhaul. The collection offers an mélange of texture, color, and patterns in a soft and subtle palette that is so reflective of the current times. When designing the line, I worked to create classic looks that will continue to be in style for many coming seasons.

By Jeffrey Rackover

It is indubitable that everyone has felt the effects of this economic crisis, some more than others. There have been multiple reports about how even the wealthiest among us are curtailing their spending sprees, cutting back on extravagances, and generally opting for a more demure lifestyle. This fresh consumer-awareness trend has produced an entirely new breed of buyer. Shoppers still lust after designer pieces and gemstones, but there is a new criterion for value, and thus we’ve seen many ostentatious individuals metamorphose into modest ones. This change is visible in current fashion trends—to be too opulent is considered in poor taste. With this newfangled perspective, I predict the en vogue look of 2009 will be one of classic, understated elegance.

This year’s choices will pay homage to minimalism. Women will go for chic and sophisticated as they strive to channel Audrey Hepburn and Grace Kelly, the antitheses of gaud and glitz. In the diamond industry, my latest sales have reflected this shift. Clients I have worked with for years have changed their typical request of “How much, and how big can I get?” to “I want something that I will always have, always love, and always want to wear.” Just as every woman needs a little black dress, she also needs classic diamond pieces, and despite the state of the economy, there is never a bad time to invest in those, as long as it is done smartly.

In this market, jewelry needs to be versatile. For earrings, I recommend diamond studs and hoops, as these styles can take any woman from day to night. The same can be said for bracelets and bangles, which can be worn stacked for a funky, trendier look, or alone for a more classic statement. (For those who follow the Hollywood trends, many of my clients will be walking the red carpet throughout the awards season with diamond cuffs and bracelets for their statement pieces.) With a demure embellishment or detailing, these classic hoops, studs, and bracelets become completely unique and personal while remaining timeless.

I think that this desire for the classic will carry through Valentines Day, but after February 14, there will be a major shift to color that will continue through the spring and summer. While the colored gemstones and yellow and pink diamonds were hot last year, the 2009 incarnations will follow the trend of simple cuts and designs. The goal now is to be discreet—anything too flashy just feels wrong.

It’s an exciting time to take advantage of the classic trend and buy pieces that are chic today and therefore always will be. I look forward to dressing my clients—both the stars that walk the red carpet and my favorite loyal patrons— with the best trend we’ve seen in quite a while: class.

Until next time,

Jeffrey Rackover
589 5th Ave.
New York, NY 10017
212.644.3838

It fits in a way that no mass-produced garment ever could, even one with the most exact post-production alterations. The custom suit lets others know that you are a man who not only has the means to be doted upon, but also invests time in looking his best, which are important factors both personally and professionally. A custom suit is a power suit, and men and women alike respond to that power.

At Astor & Black, which I founded in 2004 when I was 21, we strive to take the custom suit experience to the next level. My family has been in the clothing industry for generations; my grandfather was one of the founders of a retail shop that has since grown into an empire that includes Value City Department Stores, DSW, and American Eagle. While I may be young, when you combine my family’s background with the experiences I garnered while attending school in Italy, I have the foundation necessary to embark on a successful venture. Thus, Astor & Black’s first-class business model is changing the custom suit industry by providing an incredible value for suits that rival those of the world’s top brands.

Astor & Black prides itself on its attention to details. We use the finest silk linings available, from the Bemberg Lining Company. Suits are built strictly by hand using the finest full-basted canvassing from Italy. All jacket sleeves come with working buttonholes (“surgeon cuffs”), and, if so desired, detailing on pockets and lapels can be handpicked and hand finished. Additionally, our shirts are constructed of the finest Egyptian, Sea Island, Italian, and Swiss cottons, and you can choose between 31 different collar styles, 14 different cuffs, and eight different shirt pockets. Monogramming can be done from a choice of 24 different styles in any color you see fit.

While this may sound like a pricey process, we do not transfer that cost onto our clientele. Our model allows us to keep our overhead extremely low, resulting in low prices. Astor & Black does not try to “get rich” from one customer. Instead, we opt for the volume approach and a reasonable margin. We employ more than 100 tailors overseas, with 50 sales representatives in the U.S. and Canada, and offices opening soon in Dubai, Sydney, Melbourne, and Toronto. A quick call or email and our tailors will come to your home or place of work for the measurement session. After choosing the fabrics and details for the suit and shirts (we will help you through this process to ensure you make the most appropriate choices), the clothing will be delivered in four to five weeks for the initial fitting. Once your sizes have been recorded, ordering new suits is as simple as placing a phone call or clicking on the website. With no pricey “storefronts,” we are able to create these perfectly tailored, fine suits with the same fabrics and quality you will find in the suits at Bergdorf, Neiman Marcus, Saks, or Wilkes Bashford, yet for around 80 percent less.

With the current economic situation that the country faces, value is of the utmost importance. Our custom suits, which start in the $500 range (this includes all features), provide a little bit of relief for any frazzled bank account. Our overwhelming value has garnered us a following of top-end clientele, including many professional athletes that must adhere to the various pro-leagues’ off-court buisiness casual policies. Our suits help them achieve their signature looks, and some have been known to buy from Astor & Black in bulk. Top executives also rely on our suits to help them stand out in the business world, so our growth rate has been tremendous, with no end in sight.

Over the course of the next year, I will use this column to explore the trends in the custom suit industry and to discuss various “in-style” fashions. Thanks to our reasonable prices, it is easier than ever to achieve the latest styles and keep your look up to date. Although when you look good, it shows in your walk, in your attitude, and in your self-confidence. And it is hard to put a price tag on that.

Astor & Black
www.astorandblack.com
1.877.ASTOR18
sanfrancisco@astorandblack.com

With the Dow Jones at the lowest it’s been in decades, the term “luxury” has come to represent the indulgent or unnecessary. A logo here, a bit of bling there, and—tada!—one has traded up for what is seen is some circles as extravagance. But the true definition of old-world luxury actually can impart wisdom (such as patience, passion, and craftsmanship) that may help us all weather the growing economic storm.

Take, for example, the cognac, Louis XIII de Rémy Martin. Barrels of these sleeping giants are overseen throughout decades, and, in some cases, centuries, of aging and blending, before the elixir is bottled in Baccarat crystal and sold. There are no shortcuts, no faster methods, and no quick fixes that would allow for this product to be produced in a timelier manner. Yes, it is expensive (more than $2,000 a bottle), but as Michou Mahtani, Louis XIII brand director says, “The quality shouldn’t be measured in dollars, just as the taste simply can’t be measured in flavor.”

Patience

The Rémy Martin cellars are located in the heart of Cognac, nestled deep in the region’s green valleys and the twisting vineyards. While in many realms, luxury is thought of as what is new and improved, here, the highest compliment is “same as it ever was.” The old stone cellars still resemble barracks, and the gravel crunches on the driveway, just as it has for generations. Dominique Hériard Dubreuil, chairman of Rémy Martin, oversees the empire with a dignity that comes from her upbringing as heiress not only to the company’s wealth, but also to its heritage and history. The legend of the entire brand rests on her family tree’s crown, and Louis XIII is considered the crowning jewel. “When I joined the company exactly 20 years ago,” Hériard Dubreuil reveals, “my father told me, ‘You’re very lucky that your grandfather, great grandfather, and previous ancestors were dedicated to very high quality Grand Champagne, and they could put some aside so you can have Louis XIII today.’” Today, Louis XIII is considered one of the finest cognacs on the market, but getting to this point did not happen overnight. Distilling cognac is a slow and precise process filled with persistence, evaporation, and disappointment.

As the saying goes, all Cognac is brandy, but not all brandy is cognac. Brandy, which is liquor distilled from wine (and sometimes the fermented juice of other fruits), is made in every country where grapes grow. But cognac can only be created in Cognac, on the Charente River Valley of France. All winter throughout the region, thousands of copper pots in barns gently brew delicate wines from Charente vineyards into crystalline spirits that ever so nimbly transmit the exquisite terroir of marine climate and limestone soil. The chalky soil doesn’t make for an easy growth, but Hériard Dubreuil insists, “Since the vine has to suffer more to get its water down very deep, the grape has more to say.” Every year, more than 1,200 growers submit samples of this distilled wine to the house of Rémy Martin, to be considered for the blending of Louis XIII.

Rémy Martin requires the distillation to be done on the lees to maintain richness and texture, and no supplements may ever be added. The distillers must separate the “heart” (the ideal portion) of the liquid, from the head, which is too high in alcohol content, and the tail, which is lacking in substance. In order to find a correct balance that will allow the distilled wine, known as the eaux-de-vie, to be among the chosen few made into Louis XIII, growers go to great lengths. “When you want to supply an eau-de-vie for a chance at a Louis XIII selection, you sleep in front of your boiler, and at two in the morning you’re there tweaking the tap to see if it’s good,” explains Vincent Géré, director of Rémy Martin, who refers to this yearly process as “tradition.” Out of all the samples tasted, less than three percent will be deemed worthy for blending into Louis XIII. This is the highest privilege for the chosen, redeemable in a bonus, a house contract, and utmost pride. For the others, there is always next year, when they patiently will try again for a place of distinction.

Passion

The Cognac region sees the luxury market less as a flippant ooh la la and more a valiant eau-de-vie (which literally translates to “waters of life”). The cognac business supports the livelihood of so many, from the benders of the barrels to the squasher of the grapes, and, of course, the esteemed cellar masters. Like the hunchback watching over his vampire crypt, the Rémy Martin cellar master tends to cognac that will lie a century in wait. From the original eaux-de-vie selected, the spirits are redistilled, and this second, high-alcohol distillate is transferred to oak barrels where it will mellow for years, gradually acquiring the amber hue that deepens with age. After two and a half years, these spirits can officially be deemed cognacs. After a few years, the cognacs become mouthwateringly intricate. By 25 years, they are ambrosial. Sixty-year-old cognacs ripen into a stunning depth of layered elegance. And at the century mark, the interaction of earthly elements has somehow created what only the greatest works of art confer—a truly heavenly state. Louis XIII is that rarified treasure. Due to the long aging time frame, maintaining the cellars is an unpredictable process, requiring instinct, highly developed skill, and the passion of a lifetime commitment. The cellar master oversees the house tasting commission and is responsible for the aging and blending of more than 1,200 eaux-de-vie, which is accomplished by moving the amber from barrel to barrel for decades until deeming it ready. Regardless of the care taken, each year the equivalent of 6,000 barrels (or one entire cellar) of the precious liquid is lost in the evaporation, a process known as the Angel’s Share.

A cellar master credential is a position of great influence. Yet, it’s not accomplished by rising through the ranks of a corporation, but rather by developing an unmatched enthusiasm for the product. In November, 2008, the three living cellar masters, both past and present, of Rémy Martin came together for a special tasting on the brand’s hallowed grounds. With much sentiment (and even some tears), they tasted a Louis XIII blend straight from a barrel, which represented 100 years of combined work and all three generations of their touch.

As cellar master from 1960 to 1990, Andre Giraud’s contribution to the brand was as an expert in aging, and he “realized the potential for Louis XIII was simply extraordinary.” Georges Clot carried the torch from 1990 to 2003 and used his pragmatic approach to modernize the process, yet “each time [he] tasted Louis XIII, it was equally an incredible emotion.” Pierrette Trichet, holding the position since 2003, is the first and only female cellar master in all of Cognac. “Each time you taste, you have to come fresh,” says Trichet. “You must be humble, because you are not who knows, you are who will be told by the eaux-de-vie.”

Craftsmanship

“There is so much at stake when you make a decision about an eau-de-vie that will keep for 100 years, so you better be sure of your choice,” says Chairman Hériard Dubreuil. “We double check with the most modern technology, but the final decision is [made by] the cellar master’s nose.” This “scents-ability” is of the utmost importance; the ability to recognize the nuances of fresh and dried fruits, leathers, figs and clove in each barrel or to realize a cognac needs a cellar with more or less humidity is what sets a Louis XIII cellar master apart from his or her contemporaries. “The best compliment [for a cellar master] is to be told that nothing in the blend has been changed,” explains Pierette Trichet. Providing the same flavor for hundreds of years is easier said than done. From the original oak barrels to the final Baccarat decanters, the items necessary to create a perfect product may not come in just one lifetime, but rather are the culmination of many centuries of combined knowledge.

As Hériard Dubreuil tours the Rémy Martin grounds after the cellar master tasting, she is satisfied that she is only part of the chain. Between herself and her brothers, there are 12 children, some of who eventually will carry on the house traditions for years to come. The classic Louis XIII cognac will never need to be upgraded, added to, or traded up; it was the very best yesterday, is today, and will be tomorrow. And in the long run, for $2,000, that may be an unmatched bargain. So instead of looking towards a new decade symbolizing the recession of bling, let us give a toast to the return of luxury.

Customized Louis XIII day tours of the Remy Martin estate in Cognac can be arranged to include gastronomic lunch and dinner options prepared by Chef Philipe Saint Romas, cognac blending workshops and private tastings. Starting at around 900 euros.