It is indubitable that everyone has felt the effects of this economic crisis, some more than others. There have been multiple reports about how even the wealthiest among us are curtailing their spending sprees, cutting back on extravagances, and generally opting for a more demure lifestyle. This fresh consumer-awareness trend has produced an entirely new breed of buyer. Shoppers still lust after designer pieces and gemstones, but there is a new criterion for value, and thus we’ve seen many ostentatious individuals metamorphose into modest ones. This change is visible in current fashion trends-to be too opulent is considered in poor taste. With this newfangled perspective, I predict the en vogue look of 2009 will be one of classic, understated elegance.

This year’s choices will pay homage to minimalism. Women will go for chic and sophisticated as they strive to channel Audrey Hepburn and Grace Kelly, the antitheses of gaud and glitz. In the diamond industry, my latest sales have reflected this shift. Clients I have worked with for years have changed their typical request of “How much, and how big can I get?” to “I want something that I will always have, always love, and always want to wear.” Just as every woman needs a little black dress, she also needs classic diamond pieces, and despite the state of the economy, there is never a bad time to invest in those, as long as it is done smartly.

In this market, jewelry needs to be versatile. For earrings, I recommend diamond studs and hoops, as these styles can take any woman from day to night. The same can be said for bracelets and bangles, which can be worn stacked for a funky, trendier look, or alone for a more classic statement. (For those who follow the Hollywood trends, many of my clients will be walking the red carpet throughout the awards season with diamond cuffs and bracelets for their statement pieces.) With a demure embellishment or detailing, these classic hoops, studs, and bracelets become completely unique and personal while remaining timeless.

I think that this desire for the classic will carry through Valentines Day, but after February 14, there will be a major shift to color that will continue through the spring and summer. While the colored gemstones and yellow and pink diamonds were hot last year, the 2009 incarnations will follow the trend of simple cuts and designs. The goal now is to be discreet-anything too flashy just feels wrong.

It’s an exciting time to take advantage of the classic trend and buy pieces that are chic today and therefore always will be. I look forward to dressing my clients-both the stars that walk the red carpet and my favorite loyal patrons- with the best trend we’ve seen in quite a while: class.

Until next time,

Jeffrey Rackover

589 5th avenue
New York, NY 10017
212.644.3838

Silicon Valley is ruled by the tech world. It is the raison d’entre for much of the sustained prosperity that abounds in Northern California. As such, for our premiere San Francisco edition, it was a natural decision to highlight 25 of the most important and impressive Tech Titans-the men that have shaped the industry. And it just so happens that they all call Silicon Valley home.

Mark Zuckerberg
Company: Facebook
Home: Palo Alto
The Web 2.0 wunderkind designed the perfect vessel to make social networking appeal to the increasingly addicted masses; he actually made it useful for everyone, whether young or old, hip or geeky. At 24 years old, Zuckerberg represents tech’s next generation of connected users. It also helps that in 2007, Microsoft bought a stake in the company, valuing it at $15 billion, making Zuckerberg the youngest member of Forbes’ billionaires list, with a personal net worth around $1.5 billion.

John Morgridge
Company: Cisco
Home: Portola Valley
Cisco Systems was founded in 1984 in attempts to advance the development of IP-the basic language to communicate over the Internet and in private networks. Morgridge joined Cisco Systems, Inc. in 1988 as president and CEO, and grew the company from $5 million in sales to more than $1 billion, and from 34 employees to more than 2,250. In 1990 he took Cisco public, and in 1995 he was appointed chairman. During his tenure, Cisco has become the worldwide leader in networking for the Internet, with more than $25 billion in revenues and some 47,000 employees in 77 countries.

Charles Schwab
Company: Charles Schwab
Home: Atherton
When you think of revolutionaries in the world of personal finance, Schwab is the first name that comes to mind. The man who famously brought Wall Street back to Main Street by undercutting the big brokerage houses in the late 1970s was also one of the first to bring investing online (on CompuServe, well before the ’90s Internet trading frenzy). Today, Charles Schwab & Co. holds close to $1 trillion of client assets (the figure fluctuates as wildly as the market) and a $25 billion bank that stayed clear of the toxic debt that has choke-slammed so many other financial institutions, and Chuck himself is a multibillionaire.

Tom Perkins
Company: Kleiner Perkins Caufield & Byers
Home: Belvedere
One of Silicon Valley’s pioneers, Perkins’ venture capital firm, Kleiner Perkins Caufield & Byers, was an early backer of Genentech, Netscape, and Google. He is now, or has been, a director of the following firms: Acuson, Applied Materials, Compaq, Corning Works, Genentech, Hewlett Packard, Hybritech, LSI Logic, The News Corporation, Philips Electronics NV, Spectra-Physics, Symantec, and Tandem Computers. Not one to slow down, when he turned 70 several years ago, he decided to build the biggest, fastest, most technologically advanced, single-hulled sailing megayacht in the world, the 289-foot Maltese Falcon.

Gordon Moore
Company: Intel
Home: Woodside
In 1965, Moore predicted that the number of components the industry would be able to place on a computer chip would double every year. That phenomenon came to be known as Moore’s Law. Moore co-founded Intel in 1968, and in 1975, he updated his prediction to once every two years. It has become the guiding principle for the semiconductor industry to deliver ever-more-powerful chips while decreasing the cost of electronics. While the San Francisco native is retired from Intel, he is a director of Gilead Sciences Inc., a member of the National Academy of Engineering, and a fellow of the Royal Society of Engineers. Moore also serves on the board of trustees of the California Institute of Technology. He received the National Medal of Technology in 1990 and the Medal of Freedom, the nation’s highest civilian honor, from George W. Bush in 2002.

When it was decided that San Francisco’s inhospitable, windswept, Sahara-like western half was going to undergo a woodland and glade transformation, cynics warned 19th-century San Franciscans that trying to construct a park in such hostile environs would result in a mastodonic flop. In 1868, one local newspaper wrote: “Of all the white elephants the city of San Francisco ever owned, they now have the largest in Golden Gate Park, a dreary waste of shifting sand hills where a blade of grass cannot be raised without four posts to keep it from blowing away.” That paper, of course, was just a wee bit off, as the landscape was turned into one of the world’s great urban oases; its 1,017 acres-bigger than Central Park-have never blown away. But it would certainly blow that journalist’s mind to know that 140 years later, two and a half acres of vegetation have been added to the park in an even more unlikely location: atop the new $488 million home for the California Academy of Sciences.

Of the limitless stories that Golden Gate Park can tell, the Academy’s grass roof is the most startling aspect of the latest and greatest tale: how, through a building, a museum seized the opportunity to reinvent itself as a trailblazer for new generations of explorers. As the chance to modernize an inefficient maze-like institution cobbled together since 1916, a new complex had to solve a whole variety of needs and problems: seismic, leaky roofs, accessibility requirements, and unification of intellectual resources for 250 staff members and 18 million research specimens. And then there was arguably the stickiest conundrum-how to make it relevant again to the public. Enter Renzo Piano.

The 1984 recipient of the Pritzker Prize, architecture’s equivalent of the Nobel, Piano is in the pantheon of practicing architects that consistently produce buildings that balance epic design with superior craftsmanship. With projects that range from the Pompidou Center in Paris to an expansion of the Art Institute of Chicago to a 1,000-foot-high skyscraper in London, it’s not surprising that he’s one of the handful of international architects persistently wooed by image-conscious cultural institutions. Designs for the Los Angeles County Museum of Art, the Whitney Museum of American Art, the Morgan Library & Museum, the New York Times Building, and Boston’s Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum showcase his do-it-all virtuosity.

Yet, at first, it wasn’t what Piano did in San Francisco. It’s what he didn’t do. He didn’t bring an entourage of staff to his interview. Instead, he only brought his daughter, Lia. He didn’t make a presentation. Much to the surprise of the trustees, he didn’t even have a design to show off. Instead, he sat down and listened to them. He wasn’t there to dictate what the “look” should be. He was there to understand. To be thoughtful. And out of that humility came a metamorphosis for the facility, one that blends hope and grand ambition into a new paradigm for sustainable design. Piano instantly translated this vision into simple sketches of a museum with an unprecedented living roofscape, with rippling and rolling contours meant to mimic the city’s fabled hilly terrain.

In essence, the sinuous roof links the design’s village-like cluster of spaces. At each corner of the complex is a two-story structure, housing such things as the academy’s research area, classrooms, and gift shop. The cross-shaped open area between those structures has 35-foot ceilings and is reserved for elaborate exhibits like the new 225,000-gallon Philippine coral reef habitat (the world’s deepest interior ecosystem on display). At the center of the cross is a courtyard framed by circular structures containing the Morrison Planetarium and the four-story Rainforests of the World. And there are 10 other exhibits, ranging from penguins chilling out in African Hall to interactive field research technique practice utilizing Nintendo Wii gaming wands.

Throughout the space, one is always reminded that Piano’s goal was a space that would not only hold powerful exhibits but also serve as one itself, inspiring visitors to conserve natural resources and help preserve Earth’s biodiversity. He reinforced notions of transparency and engagement through a careful selection of materials and a thoughtful arrangement of space. Windows into an active research lab and collections room connects the academy’s scientists with the public. Glass is used liberally in the exterior walls, so visitors can easily peer through the museum to the surrounding greenery of the park. To enhance the open, airy feeling created by the glass, Piano developed extremely slender support columns. A series of carefully configured cables prevent these slim columns from bending, akin to a spider web.

Of course, nothing exemplifies the architect’s and the academy’s shared inspiration like the iconic roof. The 197,000 square feet of planted material is arguably the most forward-thinking exhibit. Via an observation deck, one can check out the eco-haven, from the stock of nine indigenous plant species to the most concentrated area of native wildflowers in town. Piano’s ingenious border-a glass canopy housing nearly 60,000 photovoltaic cells-will not only produce up to 10 percent of the academy’s yearly energy needs, it also provides shade into the museum below.

Which, like San Francisco, is clearly rooted and balanced, but never stagnant. It conveys movement and intricacy, from the discoveries inside to the development happening on the world’s largest ecological corridor above. And thanks in large part to Renzo Piano, the new building serves as both resource and reminder of how humans can live and work in harmony with nature; its purpose is realized as its destiny is, shoot by shoot, heartbeat by heartbeat, blade by new blade. What better symbol could a magnificent city desire?

From the very beginning, Willie Lewis Brown Jr. was destined to make a difference.

He came to San Francisco in 1951 in order to make a difference in his own life, and he succeeded beyond anyone’s expectations. From the moment he stepped off the train from rural Texas, he began a rise to power that blended panache, raw talent, and boundless ambition. No politician dominated California longer or more completely than Willie. No politician was more flamboyant. And if you measure a man by the enormity of his progressive impact on the world, former San Francisco Mayor Willie Brown is  undoubtedly one of the most extraordinary men in the City by the Bay.

Yet as he moved through life, and through the glitzy restaurants and grandiose chambers where he held court, Brown’s origins were never far from his thoughts. He hailed from the humblest of beginnings: Mineola, Texas, a segregated small town full of people with segregated small town views. Willie Brown was too big for such a place. His escape route brought him west to the coast of northern California, a place where his race wasn’t the overriding factor, even back in the middle of the 20th century. “This city so welcomed me and made me feel comfortable and made me forget the color of my skin.”

He says this from the lobby bar of the St. Regis San Francisco, his personal stomping ground, thanks to his residence upstairs. During the course of our conversations, men stop by to clap him on the back while thanking him for his hard work and impact; women demurely offer their hands while simultaneously offering praise. People are captivated by the man who is the father of modern San Francisco, the man who is so firmly rooted in the city he says he does not like to take vacations. His career path reflects his affinity. Rather than following the typical route of corporate lawyer-turned-politician-turned mayor-turned-senator or -governor, Brown’s steadfast love for the city of San Francisco, which developed seemingly seconds after stepping off that train, spawned a path that kept Brown in the city, making moves to help her prosper. It’s no wonder San Franciscans return the love.

For the past two years Brown has called the St. Regis home, and his choice to rest his head at night in the five-star condo-hotel is indicative of something much greater than his taste in real estate. The beacon of luxurious hospitality is located South of Market, a district that Brown is personally responsible for revitalizing. When Brown began his quest, he had a vision for San Francisco, the city of his affection, and he refused to rest until that image was brought to fruition. And then he put his money where his mouth was, choosing to live-work-and-play in the neighborhood he helped create. His residence in the St. Regis is evidence enough that the shoe-shiner from small town Texas not only made it, he made it big.

It was a long climb to the top, but the eloquent man’s strong mastery of style, both in spoken prose and classic gentlemen’s fashions, made that climb unforgettable not only to San Franciscans but to the entire nation. His celebrity extends well beyond the city, and he carefully cultivated his public image over the course of his decades-long political career. He is affably known as Da Mayor, as a man of the people, by the people, and for the people. He is also known for getting results, a trend that started when he first arrived in the city to begin his undergraduate studies.

The Early Years

Brown originally wanted to go to Stanford University but was denied admittance. Opting for San Francisco State, Brown soon became involved in campus politics, joining the Young Democrats and becoming active in his church and in the San Francisco NAACP. After earning his bachelor’s in political science in 1955, he enrolled in law school.

Upon graduating from Hastings, he practiced criminal defense law, diligently representing the dregs of society, those whom more prominent attorneys were reluctant to work with. “Days were tough for a black person in the law world,” he recalls. “We were not openly recruited by law firms or real estate developers.” He established his own firm using what he knows best: personal relationships. These connections were the base of his entire practice and the only thing that allowed him to earn the money necessary to eat and live. He befriended bartenders, pastors-anyone who could refer someone who was down on their luck and had encountered a run-in with the law. “I thought that was the normal way to build an independent law firm,” he reflects. “In those first years, others didn’t have nearly as much fun practicing law. Day one, I was taking cases, while others who took jobs [with firms] were pigeonholed. I became a much more interesting person because I was really practicing law. I didn’t know that wasn’t the normal route; I wasn’t paid as much, but I did have a guaranteed opportunity.”

He also took on some pro-bono cases, fighting injustices and inequality with the NAACP. He garnered the experience that provided an insider’s perspective of the city’s woes and triumphs. “My law practice alerted me to the existence of an underclass not just of black people, and while representing the underclass, I became immensely familiar with their troubles. Simultaneously, I represented churches and pastors in their land issues.” While growing into the role as a community organizer, he realized that change was necessary for the city to progress as a whole, and he wanted to be the catalyst that made it happen. “It was almost natural for me to be looked at as the guy to do that work,” he states.

He first ran for State Assembly in 1962 but lost by a few hundred votes. The ‘64 election had better results, and Brown became one of four black men in the field. He stayed in this role for more than 30 years-15 of which he served as Speaker. Ten years after joining the Assembly, he began to have a notion that he might like to serve as the city’s mayor, especially once his good friend, Mayor George Moscone, was elected. But tragically, Moscone was assassinated along with Harvey Milk by Dan White. (This shooting is the subject of the recent Oscar-contending film Milk, directed by Gus Van Sant.) “When he was assassinated, it turned me off from any aspect of local government. I considered it too small and partisan, and I just believed it was horrible to deal with people who would kill for politics. I didn’t get turned on until term limits [were introduced].” Under current California term limit, no Speaker of the California State Assembly will ever have a longer tenure than Brown’s record 15 years. “I wouldn’t have left the position if there wasn’t term limits,” he says. “I didn’t want to leave the political arena and mayor seemed to be the best option.”

The Mayor

In 1996, Brown successfully relocated his political franchise out of Sacramento, becoming the first black mayor in San Francisco history. During the course of his two terms, the city experienced the dot-com era that infused untold levels of wealth and prestige into Silicon Valley. That money allowed for an unprecedented real estate boom and provided the funds that allowed Brown to accomplish public beautification projects. His term also witnessed the dot-com bust that followed, and Brown was in office during the 9/11 tragedy that rocked the entire nation. The one consistency that remained throughout the city’s highs and lows was Brown’s unwavering faith in the greatness of San Francisco and her people.

When one reflects on his stint as the leader of the city (a role that was met with a very high approval rating), the sheer number of public works he was able to build or have approved is astounding. The city’s landscape changed drastically under his leadership, but what he feels is the crowning achievement is literally swathed in gold: the restoration of City Hall. The building was badly damaged in the 1989 Loma Prieta earthquake. Under Brown’s direction, the majestic light courts were resurrected to their original grandeur, and the project was topped off by the $400,000 gold leaf dome. The utter extravagance of it all led to the building being referred to as the Taj MaWillie.

Despite all of Brown’s status-quo-changing efforts, one of the issues closest to his heart-the plight of underprivileged black citizens-was one of his greatest disappointments. Brown worked on developing social policies that would lift Bayview-Hunters Point-an African-American community-out of poverty and rampant crime, namely via replacing Candlestick and introducing a home for the 49ers in the neighborhood. But the incoming mayor halted the efforts once Brown left office.  While his plan did not come to fruition, Brown did leave office as one of the most notable and successful mayors in the city’s history.

Post-Public Office

Since exiting the public arena in 2004, Brown has not been resting on his laurels. He recently published his memoirs, Basic Brown: My Life and Our Times, which reads like a how to succeed in politics. The tips it contains range from the very serious “how to deal with federal investigations” and the serious “how to negotiate” to the seemingly flippant “how to dress.” For Brown, fashion is no laughing matter.

“I always had a great interest in clothes,” he says. His custom-made suits are part of his everyday wear; there is no place in his wardrobe for casual. He is a dapper dresser from a different generation, one where hats-in his case, Borsalino-were not something worn at a game to block the sun from the eyes but a downright gentleman’s necessity. “I considered becoming a designer of women’s clothes of all things,” he laughs. “Sorry I didn’t do that, because I would have been far better off financially. I have an interest in clothes far more than stocks and bonds. It is my hobby.”

The book is the result of two years of Saturday morning reflections with a ghost writing friend who managed to convince Brown, who had been offered large advances for a memoir, that the former mayor’s storytelling abilities could translate into a compelling read. While Brown says that he was of firm opinion that “the truth would not please a lot of people,” Basic Brown, which the New York Times called “less Brown’s memoir than a West Coast version of Machiavelli’s Prince, a seminar for young politicians by a master of the craft,” provides illuminating details about the politics of California, and the reviews have been entirely positive. Even those who do not necessarily agree with his politics can learn something from his candid tales.

His opinion is a sought-after one; his wealth of experiences in politics and in life has left him with a unique perspective about the state of the city and the nation. And he feels that, despite the economic situation that is wrecking havoc across the U.S. and around the globe, San Francisco is insulated from the brunt of the problems. “There are so many well-to-do people in this city it would surprise me if we were openly affected by what happens nationally and internationally to the economy,” he muses. “We are way down the food chain when it comes to an adverse impact on the economy, always have been. Even during the Silicon Valley changes [following the dot-com bust], we were still insulated. In part, the nature of our economy is based on joy and entertainment, things that make you feel better. When times are bad, you don’t go to the monastery. You go to San Francisco to feel better.”

He currently heads up the Willie Brown Institute on Politics, an independent non-profit organization that focuses on public policy issues. He remains loyal to the city that welcomed him so many years ago. He still spends his days exploring the city’s enclaves, dining in neighborhood restaurants and catching flicks weekly at the theater around the corner from the St. Regis. His presence is a fixture at North Beach Restaurant, Town Hall, and 1300, and his love knows no prejudice. “I am universal when it comes to the city. I am all over the city, any location; they all have a flavor for me. One thing that happens when you become mayor, you become a recognizable figure. People treat you with great respect and are welcoming, even calling me Willie and swapping stories with me about what happens on the streets or in the scenes.” So if you see him at one of his favorite haunts, feel free to say hello. Though he remains one of the most extraordinary stories in American politics, he’s just a normal San Franciscan, who plans on living the rest of his life in the city that he helped shape into one of the world’s greatest, most thriving metropolises.

The sophisticated consumer knows exactly what he or she wants. That is why, across the board, luxury goods and services are shifting away from standardization and towards unique personalization. The ultimate luxury is a high-end product that is one of a kind, a piece that has your fingerprints all over it before you even take it out of the box. In a recession-ridden world where typical extravagances are seen as somehow wrong, when one does invest in life’s finer things, it is important to choose something not massed-produced and of the utmost quality. Since bespoke products are hand-made to the customer’s specifications, they require an attention to detail on the part of the creator that is not found in typical commercial goods.

Many brands have picked up on this phenomenon and are now offering services and products that are engineered according to the buyer’s desires from A to Z. For confirmation that the “made-to-order” marketplace is thriving, one may look at this year’s inauguration of the Bespoke Luxury Goods Fair in Milan, which featured the best custom offerings from a number of industries. If the current proliferation of unique goods is an indication, today’s customers are more demanding than ever. The good news is that with all there is to choose from, it has never been easier to satisfy your every whim. So go ahead, express yourself.

Timepieces

Watchmaker Vacheron Constantin outdoes itself-which is very hard to do-with the launch of the customizable Quai de l’Ile. Seven parts of this amazing timepiece can be personalized (flanks, interlugs, lugs, case, bezel, straps, and engraving), leading to 400 possible configurations. Consumers can also choose to combine metals (titanium, rose gold, and palladium) with different colored dials. With all of the choices, the chance of seeing the exact same watch adorning someone else’s wrist is almost nil. And the most advanced security measures in the history of haute horology, the timepiece is entirely anti-counterfeit. To aid in the creation of the timepieces, 18 Vacheron Constantin showrooms will have a Watch Configutor, a touch-screen, drag-and-drop system that walks customers through the necessary selections. The watch is then custom-made and delivered in 10 to 12 weeks.

Motorcycles

Cars and motorcycles long have been recipients of the custom treatment, although the majority of the outfitting takes place in garages after the initial delivery. BMW Motorrad recently introduced the BMW Custom Concept motorcycles, which brings the personalization aspect in-house. The BCC design study is conceived as a fully customizable ride. The rider chooses the exhaust system (shotgun-low or scrambler), type of seat (an aluminum perch seat, minimal modern saddle, or a simple two-man seat), and headlights (projector lighting or a classic circular headlamp). The paint finishes for the fuel tanks and engine are up to the rider as well, as are a number of other details. According to BMW, the BCC is the only bike of its kind in that it is customizable from start to finish.

Lingerie

Of all the things that can be customized, lingerie seems like a natural choice. It’s already a very personal item so it only makes sense that ladies would want their finest unmentionables crafted exactly to their measurements. Lingerie Couture from Carine Gilson redefines intimate wear. Made with the finest Lyon silk, airy Chantilly lace, a broad range of cheeky colors, the custom bras, panties, strings, and negligees are all hand stitched in the Brussels workshop.

Crystal

Crystal maker Baccarat was ahead of the bespoke trend by nearly two centuries. The company received its first commission in 1823 from the king of France, and this marked the start of a long-standing tradition of royals relying on the company for custom products. Some highlights of the company’s unique creations include a one-ton chandelier built for an Indian maharajah and a 230-light chandelier to commemorate Baccarat’s 230th anniversary. And at the Baccarat Museum in Paris, there is a dining room fashioned almost entirely out of crystal-the ultimate custom fitting!

Perfume

For $75,500, one can enlist the talents of Cartier’s world famous “nose” Mathilde Laurent to create a unique fragrance, giving new meaning to the idea of a “signature scent.” The perfume comes in two 5-ounce Baccarat flasks with three spray bottles and two refills, providing enough perfume for three to five years.

The smaller-and very aptly named-perfume company l’Artisan will also custom blend fragrances. In 2005, they teamed up with fragrance boutique Aedes de Venustas to create a special scent for the independent retailer. Bertrand Duchaufour, the lead parfumier, worked closely with the store’s owners to come up with the perfect scent, which is now available as an eau de parfum and eau de toilette, and also as a candle.

Handbags

Rivaled only by shoes, handbags hold a special place in the sartorial milieu. “It bags” are practically fetish objects complete with outlandish names, limited edition runs, and waiting lists. As with perfumes, Cartier takes the personal connection to one’s bag to the next level. The Marcello line allows clients the opportunity to choose from a number of colors, leathers, linings, and finishes to create a custom handbag that is made specially in its European workshops.

Bulgari jewels have graced the necks and wrists of some of Hollywood’s most celebrated actresses-Angelina Jolie, Halle Berry, and Keira Knightley, to name only a few-not to mention royalty, dignitaries, and well-heeled women and men internationally. The family-run Italian luxury brand has, since its inception in 1884 by Greek émigré Sotirio Bulgari, become among the most profitable and well respected jewelry houses in the world.

But Bulgari devotees don’t just swoon over the one-of-a-kind jewels. Over the last 50 years, the Italian company has very carefully and successfully branched out into the accessories, watch, fragrance, and even hospitality industry. The company opened The Bulgari Hotel in Milan three years ago, owning 65 percent of the project (the other 35 percent owned by the Ritz-Carlton). A sister hotel in Bali followed in the wake of the Milan hotel’s success, and Bulgari is planning to open a few more hotels in major cities like Paris, London, New York, Tokyo, and Shanghai. Remarkably, it is still a family-run business, and for this reason, it is very careful to maintain the heritage and prestige of the family name.

That said, Bulgari isn’t a company to do anything without total involvement, dedication, and grace. The jewelry and watch sector make up more than half of the company’s business, but the fragrance division-only a 16-year development-and accessories division have brought in a considerable amount of profits (fragrance alone brings in 20 percent). For their first fragrance, Eau Parfumée au thé vert, it looked to expert French perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena as the nose. This perfume set the pace for what are now five major fragrance collections and the ninth largest fragrance business worldwide.

So, while the fashion industry doesn’t usually give two hoots for fragrance launches-nor should they with celebrity fragrances like Jessica Simpson and Mariah Carey’s tarnishing the elegant cache of the fragrance market-when a highly respected company like Bulgari debuts a new fragrance, fashion insiders know to expect only the best in presentation throughout the launch. The company invited a fabulous assemblage of such insiders-coming from Spain to Shanghai-to Istanbul, Turkey, to celebrate the launch of Bulgari’s 14th fragrance, Jasmin Noir. The fragrance’s noses, Sophie Labbé and Carlos Benaïm, flew in from Paris and New York respectively, and Bulgari CEO Francesco Trapani also joined in the festivities. “We decided to present Jasmin Noir in Istanbul for its sensual and mysterious atmosphere,” explains Trapani. “This magnificent city lies between the Mediterranean Sea, the ‘white sea’, and the Black Sea, crossroads of cultures, [and] the meeting point of Asia and Europe.”

And the Turkish city-third largest city proper and Europe’s most populated city-does compare, as Mr. Trapani explained, to Bulgari’s embrace of modernity and heritage, the future and the past, East and West. Remnants of hundreds of years of history make one feel tiny in comparison-the backdrop of the city is architecture dating back to the Roman, Byzantine, and Ottoman Empires-yet traditional neighborhoods and emerging artist and nightlife enclaves coexist seamlessly together.

The six-century-old Grand Bazaar is among the ancient and modern wonders of the city, with more than 4,000 shops within the serpentine indoor shopping complex, selling everything from diamonds and gold to rugs, pottery, and hammam goods. Not too far from the Bazaar, Eastern Rome Emperor Justinian I practically depleted his royal treasury erecting the dome-ceiling Hagia Sophia in the 530s and rebuilding it after a string of earthquakes. In fact, the basilica suffered damage from earthquakes over the next millennium, and whilst in repair throughout that time, Justinian’s successors added emblems and mosaics of their own beliefs overhead. The Ottomans converted the site to a mosque in 1453, building its signature minarets and inscribing verses from the Koran throughout, but the original mosaics were uncovered when Hagia Sophia became a museum in the 1930s. Now, both Islamic and Christian emblems mark the building, embodying the history of the city. Meanwhile, the 15th century Ottoman Topkapi Palace is filled with opulent vaulted chambers, religious relics, and a look at bejeweled loot from Ottoman conquests. The largest ancient cistern in Istanbul, built in the 6th century by Justinian, runs beneath The City of Seven Hills. Above ground, residents and tourists are whirring through Istanbul’s stylish streets while below ground water droplets are background music for visitors climbing down into the ancient cistern.

Istanbul has carried their bejeweled past into present. Old World hammams are being converted into luxury spas, former palaces are being transformed into luxury hotels-the new Four Seasons on the Bosphorus, for example-and a stylish, international set has moved into the city. Fashion trendsetters are searching out the Nisantisi District for textiles and housewares; dining at trendy rooftop eateries like Mikla (atop the Marmara Pera Hotel); and visiting contemporary and modern art at the new Istanbul Modern museum. Archaeologists and history buffs are sharing planes with designers and DJs, all bound for Istanbul.

So one can understand why a mega-company like Bulgari chose Istanbul to represent their bright future and begin the celebration of their significant past. Guests gathered at the Topkapi Palace to learn about the fragrance, a subtle but magnificent presentation put on by the company. The two noses carefully interpreted the layers of the scent to guests. “The name Jasmin Noir [represents] dualities: the contrast of white and black, the opposition of purity and sensuality,” explains Labbé. “The fragrance is born from all those dualities and from the complementarities of the two creators, a man and a woman. Carlos and I have teamed up to create a fragrance that would offer all those contrasts and facets.” Benaïm adds, “The Bulgari fragrances are intimately linked with iconic flowers expressing the glamour and the preciousness of the brand. Following Rose Essentielle, jasmine was the obvious choice. To me, the scent of jasmine is a highly provocative and evocative smell. It takes me back to images of my childhood, where jasmine perfumed the air in my grandfather’s villa in Tangiers.”

Guests were able to sample the fragrance’s signature notes of jasmine, gardenia, and tonka bean while they sat on a terrace overlooking the Golden Horn and the Sea of Marmara. Following the presentation, Bulgari’s selected guests enjoyed dinner underground in the ancient cistern, which does not typically welcome events. Just as Bulgari seamlessly embraces modernity and heritage, the future and the past, the meeting place was the perfect setting for the motley crew of guests, all dressed in unique styles from around the world. With the water droplets creating soothing background noise and candles lighting the long communal table, the meal was, like the company, graceful and effortlessly elegant.

This is an important time for Bulgari. Not only did the company recently introduce the Jasmin Noir, but the New York store’s face-lift and Kate Moss fragrance campaign has sparked the interest of a younger demographic. A new flagship store is open in Paris, and an exhibition of celebrated vintage pieces, Between Eternity and History 1884-2009, is slated to run this spring at the prestigious Palazzo delle Esposizioni Museum. The year 2009 will mark the official celebration of the prestigious brand’s 125th anniversary, which certainly will be celebrated in style.

Since 1996, Edmiston & Company has been providing the world’s most discerning yachtsmen and travelers with its indispensible services. Whether you’re in need of a yacht charter, interested in purchasing a megayacht, or seeking management and staff for a private vessel, Edmiston answers the call. With an impressive fleet of more than 100, there is a wide variety of yachts for charter from which to choose. However, there is only one that sets the standard for superiority in style, technology, and innovation: the 252-foot Princess Mariana. The 42nd largest yacht in the world, this not-so-little princess might just be the most posh imperial to ever hit the seas, making for one of the world’s most sought-after charters.

Built at the Royal Denship in Denmark and launched in 2003, Princess Mariana is as strong as she is chic. Measuring at 79-meters and with a cruising speed of 17-knots, her power and speed slice through the water with regal dominance. The six-deck vessel was designed with a limited capacity of 12 permanent guests, allowing individuals onboard to easily cloister themselves and enjoy the serenity of the surrounding water. Not to worry, there is capacity for 26 staff and crewmembers. Though her vast size and sprawling deck space is impressive, to say the least, it’s the innumerable accoutrements and detailing that went into her $12 million remake that set the Princess apart from any other charter.

The headlining feature onboard is undoubtedly the custom Beach Club. The dry dock of the club area can be flooded when the tender is out, transforming the space into a 12-meter swimming pool with underwater illumination, accentuating the steps that lead down. A strong second leading attraction is the convertible helipad driving range. While the onboard chopper is in flight, the pad serves as a base for golf enthusiasts, while a gargantuan drop-down screen portrays famed courses from around the world. Other onboard luxury toys include a custom Oeino 12-seater, Castoldi water jet, Ski Nautique 20, three Yamaha Jet Skis, and two Yamaha Wave Runners. And the entire length of the starboard hull wall lowers to just above sea level, transforming the area into a private teak wood sun deck.

As luxurious as the exterior is, and as endlessly entertaining as the water toys are, the Francois Zuretti-designed interior is what makes the time spent onboard a true indulgence. Through a neutral palette of primarily cream and white mixed with minimalist décor and gold accents, Zuretti achieved a look that is luxurious and chic yet also warm, comfortable, and inviting. The sweeping master suite exemplifies some of the interior design phenomena’s finest work, and is replete with marble bar, pristine linens, and custom carpeting and drapery. The movie theater, bar and lounge, den, and living room are all decorated with equal care and attention to detail, creating the collective effect of an opulent oasis. The minimalist motif is consistent throughout the watercraft and carries out onto the upper party deck that holds two bars, casual seating areas, a raised dance floor, grand piano, three cinema screens, a barbeque, sun beds, and a spa pool. Panasonic Plasma TVs are in every stateroom, and the entire craft is wired to a Lantic entertainment system, capable of storing more than 15,000 audio songs and 750 DVD films, all of which can be operated by either a custom remote or PDAs on board.

With all her resplendent luxury and grandeur, it comes as no surprise that a sojourn on the Princess Mariana comes at a lofty price. Weekly charters begin at around $904,000-about $1.30 per second-though it can be assured, as with any Edmiston, the high-end experience will undoubtedly justify the means.

Without good Champagne, any soirée is incomplete. Yet, the drink does much more than top off a celebration. With one sip, Champagne’s divine sparkle can act as a sensual pleasure that complements a brilliant meal, reveal a promise of excellence actualized, or serve to spank us into remembering how special life is. Champagne is one of the very few things that is somehow able to raise our spirits whether we’re triumphant or troubled, and no where is that more evident that in the great Champagne houses: Dom Pérignon and Krug. With the Dom Pérignon Œnothèque vintage 1995 and the Krug Clos du Mesnil 1995, these two houses once again prove that they set their own standards, occupying the vanguard of innovation and earth-to mouth fulfillment for us to covet and savor.

As early as 1668, Pierre Pérignon set out to revolutionize oenology by not only creating the best wine in the world, but also creating new customs and pleasures. More than three centuries later, Dom Pérignon carries on the young monk’s triple vision with world-renowned aplomb.

Although every vintage of Dom evolves in the cellar over a minimum of seven-years before being disgorged and released, a limited number of bottles are sometimes set aside to begin a second period of aging in order to join Dom Pérignon Œnothèque. The secret of the Œnothèque lies in the additional duration of the wine’s aging on the lees. This extra time lets each vintage to surpass itself and metamorphose, transforming into something that is not quite the same and yet not quite different. It’s an alchemy that winds up as Dom’s ultimate expression of a wine whose style defies time.

Today, the $400 Dom Pérignon Œnothèque 1995 has achieved a new peak of excellence, a second life characterized by its intensity and exceptional complexity. It’s powerful and round with a creamy body, marked by the maturity of the 1995 chardonnays. For a wine produced from grapes grown in a sunny year, however, the vintage has an astonishing minerality and fruity freshness. The full, spicy aromas range from rich and nutty to candied fruit and brioche. The palate is rich with heather honey, red berries, and sweet caramel, and it turns into a lemony finish that seems endless.

Clos du Mesnil is, along with Clos d’Ambonnay, Krug’s premier cuvee. In the Cote des Blancs, at the heart of the small village of Mesnil-sur-Oger, sits a vineyard that is a unique domain of its own in Champagne: 4.61 acres of chardonnay vines that have been growing in an entirely walled and integrated space since 1698. The site is interesting for its exceptional location, as it gives unequalled conditions for the growing and ripening of the chardonnay grape that is planted on a gentle slope facing south east.

Krug purchased this property, which belonged to the Benedictine Monastery of Le Mesnil until 1750, in 1971 in the size and form that have existed since 1698-a scaled stone in the vineyard wall testifies to this date. Unfortunately, when Krug acquired the property, the vines were too old, and there was an urgent need for a full program of replanting. This was accomplished gradually from a progressive plan, plot by plot. It was not until the 1979 vintage that Clos du Mesnil had been restored to its proper standards of single-varietal greatness. In this special place, the Krug is born in small oak casks to enhance its unique original character, making for an individualistic, original Champagne.

It’s also an extremely elegant one, especially the 1995 vintage (which can be found for a minimum of $650). It’s remarkably well balanced with a vivacious, pure flavor and voluptuous texture. Typical of Krug, its color is straw-gold, and its bouquet intensified by the subtlety of chardonnay. Along with mineral, citrus fruit notes, a hint of biscuit, and a vibrant aroma, the wine is characterized by a fresh, crisp vivacity allied to rich nutty and honey notes. If you’re a fanatic for classic exuberance in your bubbly, this will be right up your terroir.

The combination of a long history and the unique landscape of the vineyard, together with Krug’s many refinements, makes it obvious that when the fine, profuse Clos du Mesnil beads begin finessing down your throat, you’re exalting in one of the rarest and most sought after bottled vintages in the world.

Lost in this explosion is the consumer’s love affair with the guzzler. Gargantuan SUVs and sports cars that get low gas mileage are in danger of going out of vogue. There has been a shift towards efficiency and simplicity, which begs the question: Is the need for luxury speed vanishing?

Elon Musk, CEO of Tesla Motors, certainly doesn’t think so. The Silicon Valley-based electric car firm teamed up with British manufacturer Lotus Cars to create the Tesla Roadster, the world’s first electric supercar. In doing so, Tesla has redefined the assumption that driving electric vehicles is merely a necessary evil if you need to get someplace you can’t reach on foot or bike. The Roadster is simply exhilarating.

From first glance, it’s clear that the Roadster has Lotus DNA. The aluminum chassis, which weighs less than 200 pounds, is developed from the Lotus Elise. But don’t be fooled. Tesla stresses that the Roadster is not just an electric Lotus, and it shares no more than 10 percent of the parts. Tesla chose Lotus simply because its low power, lightweight cars are some of the best handling and thrilling drives out there.

Getting behind the wheel of an electric car is an unusual experience. Starting the car is silent and there’s no idle. There’s no clutch pedal to contend with nor the sluggishness of an automatic-just the touch of your foot and you’re off. The single-speed gearbox of the Roadster races to 60 in 3.9 seconds by virtue of the electric motor’s 248 horsepower and 280 pounds-per-foot of torque. Unlike gas-powered motors, the Roadster’s electric one weighs a mere 115 pounds and delivers 100 percent of its torque at start. When the throttle is released, the 2,700-pound car winds down to almost nothing by motor braking alone.

The interior of the Roadster isn’t necessarily gorgeous, but definitely an upgrade over its sister cars from the U.K. Doorsills are low to make entrance somewhat easy, and the leather seats are heated. The premium stereo is a single DIN JVC KD-NX5000 that features Divx and DVD playback, as well as navigation and an iPod dock. The stereo has great imaging and is positioned low on the dashboard. To the left of the steering wheel there’s an electric touch LCD that supervises battery charge, tire pressure monitors, and more.

The Roadster’s battery pack is one of the largest and most advanced in the world. It’s light, durable, recyclable, and stores enough energy from the vehicle to travel about 220 miles without recharging, something no other production electric vehicle in history can claim.

The Tesla Roadster’s base price is $109,000. Reservations for the electric supercar are open to all U.S. residents with delivery in around 12 months.

Sports car enthusiasts who aren’t as concerned about their carbon footprint will be excited to get behind the wheel of the 2010 Lotus Evora. The first totally new Lotus in nearly 15 years, the Evora looks to be a bit friendlier than previous Lotus products.

At first glance, the Evora’s fluid surfaces and fast lines create a sense of speed even when the car is completely stationary. The front view is powerful and equally as striking as the rear, where a tapered cabin, floating wing, and centrally mounted twin tailpipes combine to create a completely special look.

The Evora is slightly larger than the previous Lotus Elise and aims to provide everyday usability. The Evora enters the sports car market as the world’s only mid-engine 2+2. As with all Lotuses, the Evora extracts its high performance and agile dynamics from advanced structures and weight control rather than outright engine power. Powered by a Lotus-tuned 3.5-liter V6 engine, its 276 horsepower propel the car to 60 in less than five seconds. The 2,976-pound car tops out around 160.

Inside, the Evora employs a softer approach than previous Lotus products. Premium quality materials and finishes mesh to create a unique contemporary-but-luxurious feel. New toys include: air conditioning, leather seating from Recaro, a tire-pressure monitoring system, a backup camera, and cool blue LED lighting. The sexy Alpine audio and navigation system comes with satellite radio, iPod, and Bluetooth connectivity. In a further attempt to make the Evora more practicable, the sports car has a rear-mounted and cooled trunk, large enough to fit a set of golf clubs.

Although the Evora is a cool and eco-friendly alternative to gas-guzzlers, it still produces more than twice the amount of carbon dioxide than a Toyota Prius. The car is the first of three new models Lotus promises as part of a five-model business plan to grow the niche brand. The base price is anticipated to be around $75,000.

The collaboration between Steinway & Sons, renowned for creating the world’s finest pianos, and Peter Lyngdorf, Europe’s preeminent developer of high-performance digital music systems, has yielded the unprecedented Model C music system. Based from the same DNA as the flagship Model D (the very first of its kind to employ full digital amplification with advanced adaption technology), the Model C offers the same superior craftsmanship and perfected technology, but with a new sleek design, ideal for intimate living spaces and compact listening rooms. Every component of Model C was carefully designed in order to achieve phenomenal performance and long-term reliability. The chic design offers the same Steinway & Sons lacquer found on the world’s best pianos, and the innovation of an integrated CD player driven by industrial grade servomotors is one of the first of its kind. The Model C Music System is priced at a modest $150,000.